Montreal - July 2, 2011
Meet up with Janet at 9:30 on Kingston Road near the 401. It was the Saturday of a long week-end that began on Friday so traffic was light on the 401 and almost no 18 wheelers to manoeuvre around.
It was a nice ride and having Janet riding just behind me gave me a sense of safety. We stopped at Subway in Kingston where Janet got me a tasty veggie sandwich and sun chips.
About 1:30 I headed east and Janet went west. Arrived in Montreal about 4:40 after someone directed me to St Catharine Street. I was in the Mont Royal neighbourhood which is lovely and requires good brakes. Somewhere enroute I noticed I no longer had a high beam and Basil had told me the low beam was out. At the Canadian Tire there were no 7.5 volt fuses to be found so I purchased 2 and 3 volt fuses. I changed the headlight fuse, but then the bike would not start. So I put the old fuse back and the bike started up. At McGill University student residence ($45 a night with my Ryerson student discount) by 5:30 where I parked the bike on the sidewalk, tucked in close to a bicycle rack. It was there the next morning with no ticket. The Jazz festival was on around downtown. So I wandered around. Ended up on the patio at Le Drugstore. No food at this bar. So I found the Indian restaurant in the Latin Quarter which I knew from trips in 2006 and 2009. The residence was quiet and I had the shower room all to myself. Rode 6 hours today and about 550 Kms.
Quebec - July 3
8:30 a.m. - Left Montreal for Quebec city. Took 40 E along the north shore of the St Lawrence. A motorcycle cop passed me and looked squarely at my headlight – but kept going. Came into Trois-Riviere from the north and there was a huge bridge dead ahead of me. I am not fond of heights - especially when the high bridge is made of that gnarly steel mesh. But luckily my route took me east just before the bridge. Stopped just outside of the city for an early lunch at 11:30. By this time I was basing my stops on whether there was a motorbike shop nearby or at least a city that would have transportation out. But even after another stop for gas the Honda was still going. Albeit without running lights, speedometer or a reliable ignition switch and 70,000 estimated kilometers already. Another high bridge had to be crossed and it looked like it might crumble at any moment – so I hurried over it. Had a room at the Sheraton at a reduced rate, ($59) courtesy of my sister, in Levis just south of Quebec. Arrived at 1:30. The hotel provided a shuttle to the ferry that would take you into Quebec city. Started on the lower part of Quebec and then went straight up the hill to the interesting part. Lots of shops and restaurants and parks. Made my way back down where I waited for the ferry at a pub. These places were built prior to indoor plumbing and the washroom was a tiny bit scary. Back at the hotel I found a restaurant and proceeded to order the poutine. Would have liked to stopped at Montmorency Falls but it was across the river and I wanted to ensure I got to PEI where Veronica’s roommate, Mike, was preparing an Indian dinner for us. Rode 4 hours.
Fredericton, NB – July 4
7:00 am the next morning I had the hotels outdoor pool all to myself. Loaded up the bike and was heading out in an overcast sky by 9:15 Bike started right up. Janet had provided me with several maps, one of which was Quebec. So when I saw a sign that said Edmundston was this way, I took the 289 and was glad of it. It was an amazing ride - beautiful – lots of lakes and trees and mountains and little traffic. When I stopped to take a picture and look at a map people would actually leave their cars and come over to me and ask if I needed help – the woman that spoke French said she could get her son that knew English, but my map was saying I was on the right track. Followed a train for miles until Edmundston. Found a TD bank and then was on my way to Fredericton. When I was heading south on Hwy 2, a nice two lane, divided highway, I was outrunning a storm just behind me and got a couple of minutes of hail. Passing Florenceville a sign bragged of a potato museum, so I veered off to have a look. Didn’t seem open so I took a secondary road NB 130-S until the road was too torn up then back onto # 2. At this point there were so many squished bugs on my helmet visor that my vision was impaired ! Had to be on the lookout for Fredericton as there seemed to be only one exit. Found my B & B (The Abbey $65 cash) at 6:00 but it was now 7:00 Atlantic time. Showered and changed and went to discover the city. Seems St John river divides the city but the downtown area was just minutes on foot. The gay bar, Boom, was not open Monday but there were LOTS of other bars. I found an Irish one with a nice patio and a great waitress. Sampled a few local draughts. Woke early and did another walking tour of the city. My inn keeper made excellent blueberry pancakes and back on the bike by 10:00 am. Rode 9 hours.
Charlottetown, PEI – July 5
Very straight forward route on # 2 until Moncton, where I took a turn NB 11 as per my google directions, but it didn’t seem right so I turned around and got back on # 2. It was circle sort of route you could take north or south and I think the south was longer. I was anxious to get to my destination so was really gunning the bike - running at 8000 to 8900 rpm – just before the red line, and gas consumption really did seem to go up considerably. Just before the bridge to PEI there are many warning of night dangers of Moose with graphic signs showing mutilated cars and a moose standing over it. I did not want to be on that stretch at night ! - even if I did have headlights- which I didn’t’. Confederation Bridge was nicely paved and didn’t bother me at all. PEI is so pretty and I love the red earth so I stopped several times for pictures. Got to Charlottetown by 2 or 3 - I should have changed my watch I was so confused for the next three days. Found Veronica’s house easily after stopping at the MaCaulay bakery and the PEI liquor store. Veronica had school work to do so we went to a cafe and she did it on the computer while we had a latte. We went to a few shops, including Moonstone with its great soaps. After Mike’s great dinner we borrowed his truck and went to get the camping equipment from Veronica’s friend for our trip to Grand Manan on Wednesday. Rode 6 hours
Grand Manan, NB – July 6
At 8:45 am we got our Ford Focus and loaded it up, got a coffee and almond croissant and headed out. My map reading skills are sketchy at best and I got us into Nova Scotia when we wanted New Brunswick. After paying a toll Veronica figured we were in Nova Scotia, so we headed back. Now I was paying attention to the signs and road mile markers ! Was just a few minutes late for the 3:30 ferry out of Blacks Harbour so we drove on to the St Andrews road and stopped for a trail hike. Got to the 5:30 ferry in plenty of time. When they say 5:30 they mean 5:30. It was an hour and a half to the island and we were on the top level watching for whales. Veronica spotted one just before we docked – it was following a fishing boat. Veronica knew where the camping site was and we checked in, set up the tent and went back out. The drug store was open and the variety store was the local hang out. We stopped to have a look at the marsh but it was dry. We saw a deer but not much else on the island. Back at our camp- this is a cliff edge site - we got a great fire going and Veronica put on the salmon and corn on the cob. The fish was so tasty and we shared the slightly charred corn on the cob – the other one was black from falling into the fire and then the tin foil came off. When claiming our food out of the fire you are literally on the edge of a very steep cliff – one wrong move....... The sleeping bags and air mattresses were surprisingly comfortable. We woke early the next morning and had a great site of the calm Bay of Fundy and beautiful blue sky. In town we found a great bakery for coffee and Danish. Headed down the east coast to the end of the road where there was a lighthouse. Back to a ferry that took us to White head island. We arrived just as they were loading. There were just two cars – ours and a couple from Maine. The ferry held 10 cars. Not much on this island so we caught the next ferry back and were the last car to fit onto the ferry – right behind the couple from Maine. Back at our site we cleaned up and checked out after Veronica had her Huck Finn ride on a raft on a small pond. The 1:00 ferry was full up as one of the two ferries was out of order so we waited for the 3:30 ferry. Like we had a choice. A hike into the camping trails took us to Hole in the Wall – a stone structure that has a circle in the middle, presumably from water wear. It was said to be the hottest day they have had for a long time and even with the sea breeze it was still stifling. But on the ride back we saw a Minke whale breaching from the water and seals and a dolphin. So worth it. After a stop for ice cream we were heading back to Charlottetown - no wrong turns – stopped for pizza at 9:00 pm. It was too late for a bike with no lights and we were tired so I had Veronica’s bed for the night. Left her to finish yet another paper by 8:30 the next morning.
Brunswick, Maine - July 8
This was the longest ride – almost 12 hours – but mostly pretty and the bike working very well. The rate for a motorbike on the Confederation bridge is $ 17 compared to $ 43 for a car. I took the north route toward Moncton and west of Moncton, in maybe Salisbury, found a cute, retro diner for breakfast at 10:30. Veronica was happy I was in the right Province. The owner gave me a good route out and I stopped for gas the same place that Veronica turned off to get gas two days before. On to the US border and the bike was at the 8800 rpm on the highway. Close to St Andrew I was following two other bikes and at the top of a hill the police pulled them over and signalled for me to go ahead. Phew ! ! At the border we moved pretty quickly and the customs official spent just a few minutes with me. Found the visitor centre in Calais where I got a map of Maine and was told about the no helmet law (or lack of) in Maine. I followed Hwy 1 down the coast. The first part of Maine was somewhat desolate. Abandoned businesses and homes and vehicles. One of my short cuts was # 182 – absolute rider perfection. Little traffic, trees, river running along side, lots of twists and turns. In Ellsworth I stopped for Dairy Queen’s burger and shake deal – about $ 4.00. Now close to Bar Harbor and the economic environment is much different than to the north. I wanted to stop in Belfast, but it was still early. Found 131 and 235 into Waldoboro where I was hoping to stay the night, but not much here. This was another fantastic ride on these secondary roads. I wanted to stop for pics every five minutes, but had already run out of film. Hurried into Bath. But Bath needs a bath. Scary place and was glad I could not find accommodations. So I hoofed it into Brunswick where I saw a Travellers Inn and got a nice room for $92. The light was just about to run out at 8:15 pm. Walked a block to the Lions Pride where I had a Whalers Tale Pale Ale just for Veronica. Then other local brew just for me.....
Salem, Massachusetts – July 9
Slept late and it had rained overnight but the bike was covered (thanks Janet) Janet had also loaned me a tank bag which proved indispensable for carrying all my loose stuff. Don’t know how I lived without it before. Now it was stuffed full and the current map was on top. Now on interstate 295 and then 95 until Kennebuck where I got back on 1. Highway posted speed is 55 mph and 65 mph. No idea what this translates to in Kms and my bike does not have a working speedometer anyway. It was stinking hot and I was in a 35 mile zone so I took off the helmet (Don’t tell Basil) and rode into Kittery which is on the border to New Hampshire. There are lots of high end outlet stores here, even Brooks Brothers. I would have stopped if I wanted something. Spent about 20 minutes going through New Hampshire and then Massachusetts was a seamless entry. I was still without the helmet and a guy came beside me and told me I needed to wear a helmet. Oops. Took a wrong exit and ended up in Danvers, MA when I saw an Olive Garden, so I pulled in. The couple sitting next to me told me to see the 7 Gables in Salem and the best route to get there. Salem is also on the water and filed with the tourist spots including: the Broom Closet and Witches Brew and interesting graveyards. Nathanial Hawthorn is a town hero – which leads one to the House of the 7 Gables. I talked to the custodian in the parking lot who gave me a brief history and directions to a motel. I found the Clipper Ship Inn and unloaded my cargo. Went on the red line tour. There is literally a red line running through town to direct you to the interesting areas. The Jazz festival was on and I watched barefoot boys play for a while. Afterward stopped for a $3 beer and later drove to nearby Lynn where this is a gay bar. Not too interesting so back to park the bike at the Inn and over to Ninety Nine restaurant to watch a baseball game. I sat next to a lesbian couple ! Fell asleep with the TV on and when I woke in the middle of the night the movie Smilla’s Sense of Snow was on the last 30 minutes. I have this book (published 1993) on the table next to my bed at home – about ¾ finished. Rode 4 hours.
Boston – July 10
Headed out on # 1 and stumbled upon Marblehead (beautiful) and Swampscott (best beaches ). Stopped in Lynn for breakfast at a greasy spoon. Into Boston a toll was dead ahead so I asked if it would lead me into downtown. The tunnels are very well lit and if you know where you are going, very easy to drive. I wasn’t clear on where the Sheraton was so I got off at the Seaport district. Not correct -- so I drove until I found the Ritz where the doorman gave me a map and directions. It was 1:30 when checking into the Sheraton where I got a corner room with a great view and king size bed. Could be Cathy’s influence ?? The Sheraton had parking for $39 - not going to happen so I drove around until I decided to tuck the bike next to a bicycle rack in the back entrance way to the Convention centre which is right next to the Sheraton. I checked on it a few times and the next morning there were two other bikes beside it. Boston has dedicated meter spots for motorbikes. I set out on foot and found the commons – a great park - and commonwealth avenue which is another beautiful walking path. Close by was Cheers so I stopped in for a pint. The pub is small and there is a gift shop. Went into Chinatown (not very clean) and stopped in at Eddie Bowers. Went to Rock Bottom – a bar that would not let you sit on the empty patio unless you order food ? I found all three of the gay bars I had wanted to check out but they were not open Sunday afternoon. Back at the hotel I had a few pints, dinner and off to the room. At 6:40 am Monday I went to the pool. There were already 4 people swimming and I would rather not swim into any old guys ! So I went for the buffet breakfast and to discover the city again.
Rutland, VT - July 11
Was back on the bike by 9:30 am which may have been a mistake as I was in rush hour traffic on a scorching day with a leather jacket on and had to do a couple of U-turns. I am very good at them now. At this point I only had my Google map to guide me to the Green Mountains in Vermont. Stopped in Gill for a great picture from a very high bridge – gave me vertigo…. In the small town of Gill I stopped in at a Honda dealer to ask about my shock – it was the cleanest shop I have ever seen. The mechanic thought I shouldn’t worry about it and getting parts would not be easy. The Google map was working fairly well and I was on # 2 until Shelburne Falls where I stopped. They have glacial potholes on a smaller scale than the ones I saw in Northern Ireland. At the visitor centre I got directions to North Adams. I was going to go 2A but the woman said 2 was steep in areas and had a hairpin turn – so I went that way for Janet. North Adams had a TD bank and a visitor centre that was closed from 12:30 to 1:30 – I arrived at 1:00. Getting back on the bike it was 95 degrees and I couldn’t figure out how to secure my jacket to the bike so I put it back on ! But I did forgo the gloves. Later that night realized I had a sunburn on both hands. I am now on Route 100 which is 200 miles (320 kms) and just amazing. There is a river that runs next to this route with an enormous amount of rocks lining the entire length. Stopped in Wilmington to take a picture and onward until Londonderry where I had slupper at 3:30 at the New American Grill. Just north a few miles I veered off Route 100 to 155. A very lonely highway. Passed a sugar house (for maple syrup) where there was a huge amount of neatly stacked wood. In the ski area of Vermont there are lots of places for white water rafting, kayaking and zip lining. I even saw a covered mini golf course outside Wilminton. Throughout Vermont and New York there are purple triangle boxes hanging from ash trees to kill beetles. Found my Ramada Inn just inside Rutledge and was swimming by 6:00 pm. I could see the mountains from my side stroke swim in the pool. Surprised to find I can only do the side stroke well when my right side is on top…… Back in 2003 I had travelled to Rutledge by train where Denise picked me up in her car and we went off to Killington. Took a walk but the town was quite a ways up so I stopped at the South Station restaurant where the bar tender and I chatted for quite a while. Rode 8 hours
Potsdam, NY – July 12
Headed out Hwy # 4 after stopping at the TD Bank in Rutland and went through Castleton – where Denise and I had a meal at a trailer diner 8 years ago. Only because it was a trailer did I remember being in it. In Fairhaven the cemetery was using toilets for markers with flowers flowing out of the seat and tank. Unique… Crossed into New York at Whitehall. A very unattractive city – seemed deserted.
Went north on Hwy 22 to Port Henry where I stopped for directions at the Library. I got a great local map which gave me an awesome road out of town and onto # 9 N. The road out went past a few huge cemeteries and was totally untraveled and had virtually no straight lines – best road ever. Onto # 73 to get into Lake Placid. My 450 had some difficulty getting up the final part of the mountain with the winds pounding us back. But the scenery was fantastic ! ! Lake Placid is just gorgeous and I got a spot on the patio of a Brewery right in front of the Lake ! ! Two hours on Hwy 30 to get to Potsdam for the final night. This route cuts through Adirondack State Park so the mountains are amazing. You literally have to have your head all the way back to see the top of the mountains which are right beside you. There are lots of places to park and many people are on the hills climbing. There are signs in some areas that are restricted while the falcons are nesting. Ran out of film again. At 4:05 around Converse and only 30 more minutes to my destination of Potsdam, I got into a seemingly torrential rainfall. The rain was pouring down and there was no place to turn off and already I was soaked through. I could feel the water in my boots so I kept driving. 10 minutes later the rain stopped, sun came out and there was steam coming off the road – very cool look ! Even my mirrors were fogged up. My jacket was much cleaner. Again went to the library in Potsdam for directions to my hotel –Northern Family Motel just north of the city. Poured the water out of my boots and unpacked all my wet gear to hang up. No choice but to get back on the bike to find a sunny spot to have a local draught.
There was a Ponderosa in town but it was still too early for dinner. Picked up two Heineken cans at a gas station for $ 3.40 total ! Stayed in to watch TV. Rode 4 ½ hours.
Toronto, ON - July 13
Headed out on a dry bike and clear sky. Took 68 into Ogdensburg to cross into Canada. There was a long bridge made from uneven steel that was under construction that I had to drive over and I was not happy. Border was pretty quick and I was back in Canada before noon. Little bit of relief with being home. Got off the 401 in Gananoque for the scenic drive to Kingston. And it was very scenic. The clouds were rolling in and I was getting turned around in Kingston so I made my way back to the 401. That is when it hit. RAIN ! In barrows. So much so you really couldn’t see. Cars were turning off the highway - but I had no frame of reference to find a place to wait it out and I was completely soaked and there was little traffic left so I just kept on. 10 minutes later I could relax when the rain stopped. I was starving so got off in Belleville to find a patio in the sun. Didn’t find one until Trenton – just west of the army base – at a Gabby’s. I was the only one on the patio so I took off the boots and turned them upside down to empty and dry. There were a group of Base personnel inside and a couple came out to the patio for a cigarette ??? thought they were supposed to be in top shape… Back on the 401 for the last leg of the trip home. Was in Scarborough at Cathy’s place by 4:30. Stayed for a quick visit and home to do laundry. Rode 8 hours.
Three days later went out to start the bike and Nothing - no lights, no noise, notta. Good timing. My good friend Basil checked on it and it was the Canadian Tire battery purchased 2 ½ months ago.
